Sorry but can't create a picture from your description. But is adding a new piece in it's place the right thing to do? With construction adhesive and nails, is it going to be strong enough?ДЇYI: I plan on using grout caulk where the tile meets wood. Leaving the existing stair nose is a very unattractive option. It also shortens the the depth of the tread which is not really an option. From the notch to the edge of the nose is only 1/2'. It would also be 1/4' shorter than the existing nose overhang, giving less of a reveal underneath the nose.ДЄs you can see from the picture, if I just cut off the existing nose (of OSB) and put the new stair nose right on it, there is not enough overhand to compensate for the 1/4' cement board, 3/8' tile and whatever thickness the adhesive will produce. This gives me the 1/4' I need to add an 1/8' grout line above and below the tile and a good surface to stain to match the nose and hardwood.

Even if I clean up the edge of the OSB (to take off the overspray from when the house was built), I'm left with an edge of OSB that will suck up stain, if I wanted it to match the stain I used on the stair nose.ДЄnother idea is to cut off the existing nose (of OSB) and add a piece of 1/2' red oak in it's place. Plus, I have no room for a grout line above and below the tile. If I put the nose on the tread, as is, I have 5/8' of OSB sticking out from underneath the stair nose.

Given that we're using Talavera tile, the size can vary by 1/16' either way. Adding 3/4' flooring means there is basically 6' left for the tile. Between one tread and the underneath side of the nose above, it is roughly 6-3/4'. The existing OSB tread has a 1' nose on it. I have 1/4' cement board that will go on the risers to affix the tile to. Notice the very short nose and shallow notch. This is the continuation of a project that has been on hold for the last 6 years.Д«elow is a picture of the stair nose. I will be using 3/4' hardwood on the treads and tile on the risers. Profiles are pre-drilled and can be secured with countersunk screws.I am in the process of redoing our stairs. Installation is simple: the insert has a self-adhesive backing and is simply laid into the recessed grooves of the metal profile itself.

Stair nosings for outdoor stair/step applications comprise aluminium or stainless steel profiles with either anti slip carborundum inserts,grp inserts or diamondtred inlays,GRP stair nosings,slip resistant rubber treads and hardwood stair nosings.GRP stair nosings also known as fibreglass stair nosings,are quick and easy to install,and can be fitted to most steps,especially in environments where non slip properties are required,and where traditional metal and wooden stair nosings will not withstand chemical and corrosion attack.Profiles with diamond-textured inlays(diamondtred) are especially tough stair-edging profiles that are ideal for use where anti-slip properties are most essential and where utmost resistance to stress and wear is needed.These type of profiles can be used indoors ,as well as outdoors since they are also highly resistant to fading in sunlight and slip resistant in wet or dry conditions.The profiles with diamondtred inlays are ideally suited for use in public places, such as airports, swimming pools, cinemas or for steps on public transport vehicles like buses,and they are also equally effective in private homes.

Tiled stairs